An izakaya is somewhere between a pub and a restaurant — a place where food and drink arrive together, in no particular order, over the course of an evening. Understanding a few things about how they work makes the experience significantly more relaxed.
The first drink comes before anything else
When you sit down at an izakaya, the first thing to do is order drinks. Not food — drinks. The rhythm of the place starts there.
This is not a strict rule anyone will enforce. But izakayas are organized around drinking, and food arrives to accompany it. The group settles in with the first round, and then ordering food begins.
The first drink order is often made collectively: toriaezu biiru — “beer for now, to start” — is a phrase you will hear at almost every table. It is less a commitment to beer and more a way of getting the evening moving while the menu gets studied.
The otoshi: you will be charged for something you did not order
At most izakayas, shortly after you sit down, a small dish will arrive at each seat. You did not order it. It is called otoshi (or tsukidashi in the Kansai region), and it functions as a cover charge — typically 300–600 yen per person.
This surprises visitors because it appears without explanation and shows up on the bill later. It is not optional, and it is not a mistake. It is the izakaya’s standard way of establishing a cover charge without calling it one.
The food itself varies by place — a small seasonal dish, pickled vegetables, a little tofu. Sometimes it is good. Sometimes it is perfunctory. Either way, it is part of the structure of the evening.
Ordering happens in rounds, not all at once
Unlike many Western restaurants, izakayas are not structured around a single order placed at the beginning of the meal. Food is ordered gradually — a few dishes at a time, as the evening progresses.
There is no timeline, no course structure, no expectation that dishes arrive in any particular sequence. Sashimi might arrive before fried chicken, which might arrive before edamame. The pace is yours.
This means you do not need to study the entire menu before ordering. Pick a few things, eat them, order more if you want. The staff are used to this rhythm.
Getting the staff’s attention
In many izakayas, staff will not come to your table uninvited once you have been seated. If you need to order, call them: sumimasen (excuse me), or press the table call button if one exists.
Some modern izakayas have tablet ordering systems, which removes the need entirely.
Calling for the bill
When you are ready to leave, you signal for the bill by catching a staff member’s eye and making a small gesture — either saying okaikei onegaishimasu (the bill, please) or drawing an X in the air with your index finger (the universal signal for “check” in Japan).
The bill is typically brought to the table. Payment is made at the register, not at the table. Everyone goes up together, or one person handles it and is paid back by the others.
Splitting the bill (warikan) is normal and expected. Telling the cashier how many ways to split it is straightforward.
The all-you-can-drink option
Many izakayas offer nomi-hodai — all-you-can-drink for a set time, usually 90 or 120 minutes, for a fixed price (often 1,500–2,500 yen). This covers a standard menu of beer, highballs, sours, and soft drinks.
If you are in a group and planning to drink for the evening, this is usually the most economical choice. The staff will let you know when the time is ending.
What makes an izakaya feel right
An izakaya is not optimized for efficiency or for getting through a meal quickly. It is a place designed for a group of people to settle in for a while.
The right approach is to order slowly, eat as the food comes, keep the drinks moving, and treat the menu as a set of options to be visited gradually rather than a problem to be solved all at once.
Once that rhythm is clear, the evening tends to take care of itself.